Personal reflections, and lots of photos, from our life in Switzerland (and France)
during our stay, 2007-09, for the LHC Startup at CERN.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Arboretum

I join a group of walkers from the Nyon International Women's Club every fortnight for a lovely, long walk. This week, we went to the arboretum, which is different from the kind we have in America. While there are some specimen trees, it is mostly a protected woodland.

The colors were spectacular.

Here is our lovely group.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Tour de France: 1 of 7. Monet's Gardens

We set off on our "Tour de France" with a huge iterary and expectations to match. We were not disappointed at all!

First stop, Monet's stunning home in Giverney. Our autumn trip gave us a feast for the senses - the scent of flowers and herbs, bursts of colors from the huge blooms, and warm rays of sun to enjoy.
This is Monet's kitchen. Photos are forbidden so the next two are from the web.


Despite being beautiful, these pots and pans had clearly been put to good use.

Ther are two distinct gardens. First, near the house, the flower garden. These plantings are meant to explode colors and textures in abundence.
Across the road, Monet's second aquisition, accessible now by underground passage, is the water lilly garden.

Tour de France 2: Versailles

The splendid palace gates.
The queen's bedroom.

The ceremonial royal bedroom.

The king's bedroom.The Hall of Crystal and Mirrors
The gardens behind the palace.


The Grand Trianon
Sterling liked this room best.

Indoor ballroom
Outdoor ballrooom
The gardens had such a different character from one to the next.

The Petit Trianon gardens
Marie Antoinette's bedroom at the Petit Trianon

Tour de France 3: Normandy, Omaha Beach and Cemetery

Visiting the Normandy beachs was very important to us. We went to pay our respects and to reflect on our history as Americans and as human beings. Our first stop was Port en Bassins. The embankments can be seen in the background.

We walked along the wide beach, the white cliffs in the backbround.

We arrived at the American cemetery late in the day.
The sun was already low.
With the beach in the background, it was quite overwhelming.
The Jewish tradition is to put rocks on a grave. It is a mark of respect, care of the tomb, and because rocks do not blow away or disintegrate, it shows that someone has been there. Symbolically, it suggests the continuing presence of love and memory which are as strong and enduring as a rock.
But there weren't enough rocks.


Tour de France 4: Mont St. Michel

The Abbey of Mont St. Michel is an amazing and intriguing sight. Though the approach road curved sharply to the left but we went stright, into a grassy lot, hoping for a nice place to picque-nique as the French call it. We were rewarded with this surprise view.
Mont St. Michel is a tiny island connected to the mainland by a causeway for the cars. The farmland near the bay was reclaimed by Normans in the 19th century with the help of Dutch engineers. Today, this reclaimed land is covered by salt-loving plants and grazed by sheep whose salty meat is considered a local treat. The Couesnon River at the inlet to Mont St. Michel marks the historic border between Brittany and Normandy, who have long vied for Mont St. Michel. (In fact, the river used to pass Mont St. Michel on the other side, making the abbey part of Brittany. Today, the river's route is stable and the abbey is just barely — but thoroughly — on Normandy soil.)
Elliott took the tour of the Abbey which is at the top. Saint Michael, whose gilded statue decorates the top of the abbey's spire, was the patron saint of many French kings, making this a favored sight for French royalty through the ages.
It is an engeneering marvel. Monks built on the rock to get as close to heaven as possible. The downside: not enough level ground to support a sizable abbey and church. The solution: Four immense crypts were built under the church to create a platform supporting each of its wings. In 1421, the crypt that supported the apse collapsed, taking its end of the church with it. Today's crypt boasts immense columns (15 feet around), rebuilt with a determination not to fall again.
The best part of the tour was this girls' choir which stopped to sing spontaneoulsy in every room of the Abbey. Elliott enjoyed this unexpected treat so much.
Saint Michael, whose gilded statue decorates the top of the abbey's spire, was the patron saint of many French kings, making this a favored sight for French royalty through the ages. During the French Revolution Mont Saint Michel was closed and converted into a prison and held, ironically, over 300 monks and priests in their once peaceful cloisters. It was declared an historical monument in 1874.
A huge, haunted fireplace!

The tides at Mont Saint Michel can rise approximately 14 meters from the low water mark. The late afternoon sun gave us this specatular view and shadow.

We enjoyed exploring: the views, the tides, the history. But it was quite touristy, as was the food - you could have every regional specialty in one menu - and so the only revision of our itnereary would be no alot less time here. An afternoon would suffice.

If you leave after dark, you are treated to seeing Mont St. Michel illuminated. Just as striking as the approach in the morning.

E's photography here is terrific, even if he did get his fee wet!